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This is not like ‘IPS glow’ as it isn’t something you can notice from a normal viewing position and isn’t as intense from sharper viewing angles. The video later on in the review shows how this appears from a variety of angles.

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The display driver is a very important software that ensures how your display settings will interact with the particular hardware like your monitor. It is like a translator that helps https://wikidll.com/ in establishing the communication between hardware and software as they both are mainly designed by different manufacturers. As noted in the OSD video earlier, there is an ‘Overclocking’ feature in the OSD which lets you set the monitor to 160Hz, 170Hz or 180Hz.

  • The histogram chart consists of a range of exposure values measured in the current view.
  • In the example above, there is an exposure compensation of 2 where the white and purple lines keep that distance from one another.
  • Blue pixels represent anything above the auto exposure adaptation ranges set by Histogram Log Max .
  • These pixel ranges ensures that the values set for Low Percent and High Percent are removing these unwanted pixels from being calculated.
  • This is the actual exposure value in the current view after exposure compensation.

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From the front the monitor shares many of the aesthetic ROG refinements seen on its larger brother, the PG278Q. The bezels are the notable exception, as they don’t feature the ‘dual-stage’ design of the PG27 series. There is just a single hard matte plastic outer component to the bezel, which covers the panel border almost entirely – this design is dictated by the panel used, which has a thicker panel border. The total bezel width including the sliver of panel border is ~13mm (0.51 inches) at the top and sides and ~14mm (0.55 inches) at the bottom. The screen surface is medium matte anti-glare as explored later on in the review. You will also notice the ‘Light In Motion’ feature , which is more of a deep red than the somewhat orange hue it should appear on these photos. As explored in the OSD video a little later, this can be disabled if preferred.

As noted later on, G-SYNC does still work in ‘Borderless Window’. Additionally, we never had this issue when Windows started up – the monitor always seemed to run at 180Hz or another overclocked refresh rate just fine, if it was already selected. Whilst observing a black screen in a dark room we observed a small amount of backlight bleed at the bottom of the monitor. There was also a little bit of clouding in this region, but nothing obtrusive during normal usage. The image below shows how the monitor looked when displaying black in a dark room, under our test settings. Individual units can vary when it comes to issues such as backlight bleed and clouding. If you view the screen ‘off-angle’ you can also see a slight golden sheen in places, which you could perhaps call ‘TN glow’.

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In this case I plug off the power source and plug it in again. In this guide, we will see how to disable the auto-brightness or adaptive brightness in Windows 10. As discussed before If your display adapter driver is outdated or incompatible with your computer, then you might face a problem with controlling the system’s brightness.

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We were able to achieve a nice balance to the image using OSD settings alone, so didn’t need to rely on ICC profiles to make additional corrections. Some slight adjustments were made to colour channels, the ‘Gamma’ setting was changed and brightness was reduced significantly. Be aware that each individual unit is different and people have different preferences. These settings won’t necessarily be optimal for all units and some users may prefer the deeper and punchier overall look of the default gamma setting. Any setting not mentioned here was left at default, including contrast. We’ve included the ‘OD’ setting used just for reference, even though it was left at default.

Most of the time, compromises in image quality aside, this feature simply works and the monitor will quite happily run at up to 180Hz. However; when connected to our GTX the display sometimes lost signal when trying to run at one of these refresh rates. This was the case with 3 different DP cables that we tried, of varying length and quality. The only remedy we could find was a hard reset of the PC – turning the monitor off, unplugging the DP cable or unplugging the monitor from the power supply and reconnecting had no effect. It sometimes occurred when the GPU was simply trying to re-establish signal, for example when a game is changing maps. This was obviously a particular annoyance, but one that could be circumvented by setting the game to run in a ‘Borderless Window’ rather than ‘Fullscreen’.